by Jacob Butler
How Abergavenny Food Festival brings Wales’s food-and-drink scene to the world
The twenty-seventh installment of the Abergavenny Food Festival isn’t far away. Every September, the Monmouthshire town upholds its reputation as a well-known food location, culminating in one of the UK’s favourite food gatherings.
Across two days – this year on 20th and 21st September – it draws visitors, exhibitors, producers, and chefs from far and wide. It is an event for anyone and everyone, food enthusiast or not. You can spend your day (and night) eating and exploring, meeting local producers or dropping in on chef demonstrations. Stroll to every corner, or sit back and admire.
Welsh through and through
Throughout its history, the Festival has provided a platform for authors, producers, ingredients, and the food-and-drink themes of the moment. As such, things change – whether that’s people, partnerships or perspectives.
But one thing has remained, and it’s important it stays that way. Abergavenny Food Festival is a Welsh festival, made in Wales – a stage to showcase Welsh produce to the world; a window into our food-and-drink culture.
In recent years, it all feels more pertinent. As food and drink grows in cultural prominence, largely thanks to its democratisation on social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok, so too do opportunities for local food-and-drink businesses.
Today, people seek out food destinations. We want experiences, whether that’s feeling the heat of an open-fire grill, or wandering the fields where our food is reared. For many, the backstory is as important as the product or plate in front of you.
From new restaurants to reclaimed traditions, Wales stands to benefit by building a food culture that lends itself to these experiences. It’s a food scene that is happening. And, as ever, Abergavenny Food Festival is where it’s all on show.
In this article, I spoke to some of the people attending this year’s event. You’ll hear what they make of the Welsh food-and-drink scene, its future, and the festival’s role in bringing it to the world.
Food
A food scene is usually defined by where and what you can eat. In Wales’s case, it hasn’t always been as prosperous, especially when compared to nearby places like Bristol and London. Today, though, Wales’s restaurants offer a rich blend of dining experiences.
Head north, and you’ll find Ynyshir – where Chef-patron and Co-owner Gareth Ward and his team are pushing the boundaries of culinary excellence. Venture west, and you’ll find Paternoster Farm, a ‘field to fork’ restaurant, grounded in seasonal produce and a no-nonsense approach to good cooking. And that’s to name but a few.
One of the latest additions to that list is Gorse, named as Cardiff’s first ever Michelin star restaurant this year. It’s hard to believe that a star had eluded the Welsh capital for so long – but Gorse’s award is a sign that things are changing.
Tom Waters, Founder and Chef-patron, describes it as his aim to “reimagine traditional Welsh cuisine” but “keeping it fun and relaxed”. He’s set to demo on The Gower Cottage Brownies Stage on day two. I asked him about Gorse and its place in a Welsh food-and-drink scene that’s getting better by the minute.
As Cardiff’s first ever Michelin star restaurant, what do you think needs to happen for other restaurants to follow suit?
“It’s not a case of copying or following a template, it’s a case of really leaning in to what you believe in and having confidence in what you’re doing. I think there is a sense of uniqueness in cuisine that’s really important, to really show off your personality throughout the whole experience.”
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Some say Welsh food is having a renaissance moment – what are your thoughts on our nation’s food scene right now?
“The Welsh food scene is in a great place. We have one of the best restaurants in the world in Ynyshir, and we also have many other great starred and non-starred restaurants that are performing at a really high level. I think that the quality of raw Welsh ingredients is being rediscovered, which is playing a massive role.”
Finally, what can we expect from your demo at the festival?
“Some great quality ingredients and interesting combinations cooked with a bit of fun!”
Tom is demoing at the The Gower Cottage Brownies Stage on Sunday 21st between 11:30am – 12:10pm. Find out more here.
On Saturday, up at the Castle Grounds, Abergavenny Food Festival welcomes back Sam Evans and Shauna Guinn, renowned barbecue experts and longstanding hosts of the Cooking Over Fire stage. Ten years after the release of The Hangfire Cookbook, Sam and Shauna will be retelling stories from their trip around America – the inspiration behind their success.
On the book’s ten-year anniversary, they’ll also be previewing a new edition with new and updated recipes. A lot can change in a decade, which is indicative of Wales’s outdoor cooking scene, increasingly popular thanks to the likes of Chris Roberts – otherwise known as ‘Flamebaster’ – and the Hang Fire duo themselves.
Wales and Al Fresco cooking may sound like an unlikely pair, but there is something about being out in the elements, torrential rain or shine, that makes food all the better. I asked Sam and Shauna why that’s the case, and what the Abergavenny Food Festival means to them.
As trailblazers in outdoor cooking here in Wales, how do you think the scene has changed since the release of The Hang Fire Cookbook?
“When we released The Hang Fire Cookbook back in 2016, outdoor cooking in Wales was still seen by many as a “summer BBQ with sausages and burgers.” Since then, we’ve seen an incredible shift.”
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“People are far more adventurous now – there’s a new appetite for smoking, slow cooking, open-fire feasting, and using local produce in creative ways.”
“It’s been amazing to watch a whole community of chefs, home cooks, and food lovers in Wales embrace outdoor cooking. We like to think the book helped spark that movement by showing that fire cooking is accessible, delicious, and a celebration in itself.”
Why should more people in Wales (and beyond) embrace outdoor cooking?
“Cooking outdoors is about connection. There’s something primal and deeply satisfying about gathering around a fire, whether you’re cooking slow and low or hot and fast. It forces you to be present, and to really engage with what you’re cooking. Outdoor cooking also reconnects us with nature and the seasons – something that feels very Welsh at its core. It’s not just for summer either. Some of our favourite cooks have been in the depths of winter, wrapped up warm with a fire blazing. We’d love more people to embrace that sense of community and celebration that comes with cooking outdoors.”
What makes The Abergavenny Food Festival so special, and why do you keep coming back?
“Abergavenny is the beating heart of Welsh food culture. It’s where producers, chefs, and food lovers all come together to celebrate the richness and diversity of what Wales has to offer. For us, it’s always been a festival that champions not just food, but stories, people, and traditions. Every year, we’re blown away by the energy, the passion, and the creativity on display. It’s also personal: we’ve built friendships here, shared some of our biggest fire feasts here, and been part of conversations that have shaped how we cook and eat in Wales. Coming back never feels like a question – it feels like coming home.”
Join Sam and Shauna at 11:00-11:40am on Saturday 21st, Cooking over Fire – Castle Grounds
Drink
Beyond food, Wales’s alcohol industry continues to punch above its weight. In particular, our wine industry is flourishing, partly as a result of warmer temperatures, with fifty-nine registered vineyards now across the country.
But, as we know, Welsh weather can quickly turn a good period on its head. It’s unpredictable, which makes scaling production a challenge. Despite this, businesses – like White Castle Vineyard near Abergavenny – are finding smart ways to manage climate risk and navigate those tricky periods.
Ahead of her wine tasting session at the festival, I asked Jane Rakison – award-winning journalist, broadcaster, and wine expert – what she makes of the Welsh industry’s prospects.
People say Welsh wine is thriving, would you agree/ disagree and why?
“Well that’s an easy one – wholeheartedly agree! Going further, I’d agree anecdotally and statistically, as there’s no doubt I have never seen so much interest in – and visibility of – Welsh wines as I have in the last say, five years, but I’d also agree statistically, as the number of vineyards, growers and therefore bottles has also increased. Exciting times.”
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People say Welsh wine is thriving, would you agree/ disagree and why?
“Well that’s an easy one – wholeheartedly agree! Going further, I’d agree anecdotally and statistically, as there’s no doubt I have never seen so much interest in – and visibility of – Welsh wines as I have in the last say, five years, but I’d also agree statistically, as the number of vineyards, growers and therefore bottles has also increased. Exciting times.”
What do you think Welsh wine needs to gain global recognition?
“Well, this could be achieved in any number of ways. Overnight global recognition could be achieved if Wales had a ‘Cloudy Bay’ moment as they had in New Zealand (that’s to say, a singular wine that truly put a nation on the map). Alternatively, some kind of financial support from the government to help the industry grow would also be very welcome, I’m sure. For example, as far as I know there are currently only two wine wineries in the whole of Wales so production levels are still minuscule. It’s hard to gain global recognition for wine when an industry is still so boutique.”
Finally, please tell us a bit more about your event at the festival and what people can expect.
“My tasting is a super-delicious tour of Welsh and English wines, covering a whole range of styles and parts of the country. I’m excited to show these particular bottles as I think – and hope – that people will be happily surprised at what they taste. The Welsh and English wine industry has grown massively in confidence and skill over the last decade or so. It’s a way more interesting wine scene than it was back then, and the wines are better quality across the board with every year that passes.”
Catch Jane at the Hensol Castle Drinks Theatre, Saturday 20th September at 12:00pm – 1:00pm
Looking ahead to the Festival, and beyond
Momentum is building in the Welsh food-and-drink scene. It’s a diverse food culture that connects with its landscape and the environments where great tastes are made. It’s outdoors, whatever the weather. It’s experiences backed up by even better ingredients and traditions. It’s local producers making inroads beyond Wales. It’s why tourists make the trip. And it’s why Abergavenny Food Festival plays such an important role.
Today, the Festival is a stage for all of those things. It is not exclusive to Wales, but it was made here. And, as the nation’s food-and-drink scene continues to bloom, that stage will remain essential. Here’s to the twenty-seventh Abergavenny Food Festival – an occasion with Wales at its core.
Jacob Butler is a writer from Abergavenny. He specialises in food writing, particularly Welsh food and its presence both in and outside Wales. He is a regular contributor for the Abergavenny Food Festival.